EN-Boho-granny-square-top-pattern

Boho granny square top Boho granny square top[A] Size [B] Bust circumference [C] Finished square size [D] Yarn required* XXS/XS 90 cm 16 x 16 cm 180 g S/M 98 cm 17,5 x 17,5 cm 210 g L/XL 106 cm 19 x 19 cm 250 g XXL/3XL 114 cm 20,5 x 20,5 cm 290 g 4XL/5XL 126 cm 23 x 23 cm 360 g In this ebook, you’ll learn how to crochet a flowy, drapey bohostyle top made with sunburst granny squares. You'll find step-by-step instructions for making the top, finishing it neatly, and caring for it so you can enjoy wearing it for years to come. This pattern can be made in any size from XXS to 5XL. You can also customize the fit to make it more fitted or more relaxed. Below, you'll find a sizing chart along with the square measurements needed for each size. Boho granny square top 2 (measured without stretching) *refers to the kind of yarn that was used in the original project, may vary depending on yarn weight (6 ¼ inches) ( ~7 inches) (7 ½ inches) ( ~8 inches) ( ~9 inches) (35 ½ inches) (38 ½ inches) (41 ¾ inches) (45 inches) (49 ½ inches)To choose the right size, measure your bust at its fullest point. If you prefer an oversized fit, add 10 cm (4") to your bust measurement. For a relaxed fit, add 5 cm (2"). Compare the final measurement to the Bust Circumference column in the sizing chart to find your size. Example: If your bust measures 95 cm (37 ½"), an oversized fit would be 105 cm (41 ½"), which corresponds to size L/XL. If you're unsure which fit you prefer, measure a top or T-shirt that you already love. Lay it flat, measure the width across the bust (underarm to underarm), then multiply that number by two. Compare the result to the Bust Circumference column in the sizing chart. If you're between sizes, I recommend choosing the larger one for a more comfortable fit. Choosing your size 3YARN For a lightweight summer top, I recommend breathable fibers such as viscose, bamboo, Tencel, or cotton blended with viscose. For this pattern, I recommend using a DK weight yarn (approximately 250–260 m / 100 g) with a soft drape. While I usually prefer tightly plied yarns, I chose a more loosely plied yarn for this design because it creates a lighter, softer fabric that's perfect for a summer top. The yarns below are recommendations only. Availability varies from country to country, so feel free to substitute them with any DK weight yarn of similar fiber content and yardage. Recommended yarns: Kokonki viscose (3-ply) used in this pattern Visco! Mono by Mila Druciarnia (3-ply) Go Handmade Tencel Bamboo Double Go Handmade Bamboo Soft Double Stenli Bamboo CROCHET HOOK This pattern uses a 5 mm crochet hook (US size H-8). While the yarn label recommends a smaller hook, a larger hook creates the relaxed, airy fabric that gives this top its drapey look. TAPE MEASURE Square size varies depending on the finished garment size, so you'll need a tape measure to check that your squares match the measurements in the sizing guide on page 2. What you’ll need 4YARN NEEDLE & SCISSORS You'll need a yarn needle to weave in your ends and a pair of scissors to trim the yarn. I prefer using a small metal yarn needle, but any yarn needle with an eye large enough for your yarn will work. STITCH MARKER A stitch marker (or a small piece of scrap yarn) is helpful for marking the beginning of a round when needed. HOW MUCH YARN DO YOU NEED? The amount of yarn you'll need depends on the size you're making. Refer to the sizing chart (page 2) and check the Yarn Required column for the recommended yardage/weight. Different yarns come in different skein sizes. For example, Kokonki Viscose cakes weigh approximately 225 g, Stenli Bamboo comes in 100 g skeins, and the bamboo yarn from Action comes in 50 g skeins. Check the yarn label before purchasing and make sure the total weight matches the amount required for your size. If you're using Kokonki Viscose or Visco! Mono by Mila Druciarnia, work with two strands held together - one from the center of the cake and one from the outside. The yarn amounts listed in this pattern already account for this. 5Construction This top is made from 8 identical granny squares joined diagonally. It’s a simple construction with no buttons, zippers, or other elements to worry about. You can also add fringe if you like, but it looks just as beautiful without it. The next section walks you through how to crochet the granny square used throughout this pattern. Important note: Before making all 8 squares, measure your first one. It acts as your gauge swatch and determines the finished size of the top. If your square doesn't match the measurements in the sizing chart, simply add or remove a round. Differences in gauge are completely normal and can be affected by your yarn, hook, and individual crochet tension. Granny square The instructions below create a 7-round granny square measuring 16 cm (6¼"). Instructions for adjusting the square size are included after the pattern. Abbreviations and notes ch - chain hdc - half double crochet dc - double crochet tr - treble crochet sl st - slip stitch [...] - insert the contents of brackets in the same space * ... * x 11- repeat the content between ** 11 times sk 1 - skip one st - stitch rnd - round 67 Special stitch dc cluster: Work the specified number of unfinished double crochets in the same space, then yarn over and pull through all remaining loops on the hook. Rnd 1: Ch 6 and close with a sl st to form a ring. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc 15 into the center of the ring. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (Photos 1–2) Rnd 2: Sl st into the next sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work a 2- dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2. *3-dc cluster and ch 2* in each remaining sp around. Join with a sl st to the top of the first cluster. (Photo 3) Photo 1 - ring made with 6 chains Photo 2 - finished rnd 1 Photo 3 - finished rnd 2 Rnd 3: Sl st into the next sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work a 3-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2. *4-dc cluster and ch 2* in each remaining sp around. Join with a sl st to the top of the first cluster. (Photo 4)Rnd 4: Sl st into the next sp between the clusters. Ch 4 (counts as first tr). In the same sp, work [2 tr, ch 2, 3 tr]. *3 dc in next sp, 3 hdc in next sp, 3 dc in next sp, [3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr] in next sp*; repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch-4. (Photo 5) Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 1 dc in each st across. In each corner ch-2 sp, work [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc]. Repeat around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-3. (Photo 6) 7 Photo 4 - finished rnd 3 Photo 5 - finished rnd 4 Photo 6 - finished rnd 5 Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first dc) and place a stitch marker in the 3rd ch. Ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st. *Ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st*; repeat until the corner. In each corner ch-2 sp, work [dc, ch 3, dc]. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to the marked ch. (Photo 7)Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 1 dc in each st and each ch-1 sp across. In each corner ch-3 sp, work [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc]. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-3. This round repeats Rnd 5. (Photo 8) Now it's time to check your square. Mine measures 16 cm (6¼"), which is the correct size for XXS/XS. (Photo 9) To make a larger square, simply repeat Rnds 6 and 7 until your square reaches the size shown in the sizing chart. 8 Photo 7 - finished rnd 6 Photo 8 - finished rnd 7 Photo 9 - measuring the squareThis pattern uses an invisible seam, but you may substitute your preferred joining method if desired. The START marker shows where to begin joining the squares using the invisible seam. After joining the first two squares (seam 1), you can continue with the same strand of yarn or fasten off and start with a new one. Be careful not to pull the seam too tightly, as this can cause the edges of the squares to pucker and lose their flexibility. Seams 8a and 8b join the two sides of the top. Once all the squares have been joined, the main body of the top is complete. 9 Joining Arrange the granny squares in a zigzag layout as shown below.